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Lagman in Tashkent

Igor batten added English than our accepted Uzbek hosts, admitting he aggregate their addiction to augment us.

It was a accomplished Monday morning back he took us to his admired kafesi for a basin of lagman; he told us that it was the best in the city. But I had my doubts, because I appear from Malaysia, and I accept we accept the best brainstorm soups in the world.

When we accustomed in an alleyway arranged with florists and bakers, I could aroma beginning aliment wafting in the air. A adolescent boy captivation up a assemblage of lepyoshka, a Central Asian flatbread, absolved beyond the room, which was abounding with bodies tucking into bowls of red soup.

We had approved a lot of altered lagman in the region, from bedimmed establishments abreast the vokzal—the capital bus base in baby towns—to bootleg noodles able by grandmothers who insisted on us accepting a additional round. But Lola Kafesi had a acceptability amid the locals. Igor said that alike during the banking crisis in 2008, its tables were consistently full.

We ordered three bowls of hot lagman, two pieces of lepyoshka, and a pot of blooming tea with auto for three people. There is no such affair as carb afflict here, and bodies consistently advance you apple-pie your bowls apple-pie with the bread. The noodles arrived, and I could see that the soup capacity had a array of herbs, red peppers, cubes of beef, and the band of oil so accepted in dishes in Central Asia.

“Time to eat!” exclaimed our host. “Every time I host addition from Couchsurfing, I booty them actuality and they are never disappointed.”

Couchsurfing is quasi-illegal in Uzbekistan, because tourists charge to annals with their hostels and hotels whenever they break in a burghal for added than three days. The allotment action causes a lot of abashing and all-overs for travelers and their hosts. Igor hosted us for two nights. We were declared to leave Tashkent afterwards, but we concluded up blockage in the burghal for a few added nights. I had no agitation bridge the bound into Kazakhstan, but my acquaintance did. So, he approved addition border, area they let him through. The rules are a little hazy.

I slurped on the soup, and acquainted a faculty of abatement that it was not as adipose as added ones I’ve tried. A chaw of the breakable beef brought a smile to my face. It was no laksa, but the borsch was abounding of acidity and the aggregate of chewy noodles, bendable vegetables, and beef fabricated the bowl a amusement to devour.

The audience was mostly middle-aged men who came actuality with their friends, administration some lagman, bread, and tea. I could not see a distinct tourist; they usually accompany bout groups who booty them to restaurants on their planned itineraries. If it weren’t for Igor, who took a accident by hosting us and demography us to this bounded spot, we would never accept accepted about it.

Photo by: Kim Sergey

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