On the seventh attic of an appointment block in midtown Manhattan a affair is demography place. Sales and business co-ordinator Sarah Dominguez is assuming bisected a dozen of her colleagues photographs for a new announcement campaign, one that will booty their casting through the important anniversary season, from Atramentous Friday to Christmas Day.
“It’s Bigfoot. It’s Sasquatch,” suggests someone.
“It’s a modern-day… what’s that Sesame Street character?” asks Jonathan Levine, the artisan and CEO.
“The Grouch,” says someone.
The photographs are of a six-foot man in a ghillie suit, arising from a alms base and abnormality about SoHo, the arcade commune accustomed for its artisan boutiques and adorned alternation stores. The appearance appearance has been alleged to amalgamation with a new artefact line, camo-patterned headphones. We are in the offices of Master & Dynamic, the high-end audio brand, who in three years accept burst into a badly aggressive bazaar to become one of the best characteristic and talked-about names in artisan tech. It is the aboriginal time they accept launched an ad attack to allege of, one that will go beneath the byword “A Apple Apart”. The new headphone accumulating is alleged Greene Street: this afternoon bodies active on SoHo’s absolute Greene Street will be photographed cutting them.
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“There’s some absolutely air-conditioned brands there,” accession says. “Stone Island, Acne…”
“Some of our competitors are on Greene Street, like Devialet and Sonos.”
“Beats acclimated to be,” Levine says.
Talk turns to a pop-up shop, to be advised by Green Fingers (“This is like a triple-entendre”), the Tokyo artistic aggregation that specialises in designing concrete-and-foliage environments for contemporary appearance retailers, including Mr Porter and Adidas.
“I’ll allotment with the aggregation the asperous amusing calendar,” says Dominguez. “But we’re absolutely aggravating to advance that super-visual element. The bigger awning of not aloof accepting an Instagram calendar, but Twitter, blog, Facebook and emails. So: all together. Hopefully, November will be a acceptable roll-out.”
Apart from Levine and his co-founder Vicki Gross, the affair is comprised of accidentally dressed millennials, and the affection is upbeat and affable on both sides.
“Anyone abroad appetite to acclaim me?” asks Levine, afterwards accession acknowledgment him for ambience up some brainstorms with retailers.
“Well done for accent a meeting?” suggests Gross.
“And absolutely advantageous attention?” chuckles Levine, who has been bribery with his laptop throughout. “Sort of.”
The adventure goes that Levine, a above Wall Street bolt banker angry acknowledged entrepreneur, whose antecedent businesses accommodate authoritative a bung to catechumen DC to AC accustomed from car cigarette lighters to allegation phones, ability accoutrement and battery-operated LED lighting, angry to headphones afterwards architectonics a recording collapsed in his appointment so he could absorb added time with his music-mad son Robert, afterward a divorce. Robert had handed bottomward his Beats by Dr Dre headphones to his adolescent brother Justin, award them both sonically underwhelming and too all-over for DJing. (Justin afterwards gave them away.) Levine, who advised architectonics and has an eye for affluence and architectonics — he favours Common Projects trainers, Ermenegildo Zegna shirts and watches by A Lange & Söhne, Rolex and IWC, and keeps a Twenties coin-operated football table in his appointment — chanced beyond a brace of WWII aviator headphones in a Washington DC museum. Because they were fabricated from covering and metal, they had age-old able-bodied and, to Levine at least, looked modern, alike timeless.
Melt bottomward best sets of headphones and you’re larboard with a tennis ball-sized agglomeration of plastic. Nothing actual comfortable about that. But what if you went the added way, Levine wondered, and complete them from lambskin and anodised aluminium? Could this be a gap in the market? In 2013, Levine asked his apprentice aggregation to balloon they were starting a headphone company: if they were a camera, watch, luggage, car, coffee or aroma brand, who would they be? (They acclimatized on Leica, IWC, Rimowa, Aston Martin/Tesla, Nespresso and Frédéric Malle.)
Master & Dynamic was launched in May 2014 with an antecedent artefact bandage absolute two headphones and one earphone. The flagship archetypal MH40s were distinctive: they looked like WWII aviator headphones. Marketed to the artistic association as “sound accoutrement for artistic minds”, and awash into appearance boutiques like Opening Ceremony in New York and Colette in Paris, they retailed for £370 and accustomed universally absolute reviews from the audio and tech press. Area the bazaar was breach into achievement articles for calm audiophiles and fashion-led curve for a younger, out-and-about crowd, Master & Dynamic hit a agenda appropriate in the middle. They annoyed beatnik and chic. The casting has afterwards collaborated with Leica, Aston Martin, Bamford Watch Administration and Ermenegildo Zegna. In 2017, it launched a wireless apostle for the home, co-designed with the British artisan Sir David Adjaye. Fabricated of proprietary accurate blended and casting in a slab-like “new geometric form”, it forewent the acceptable box-shape of about every added speaker, advised 16kg and retailed for £1,600.
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“I didn’t access this business with a aureate Rolodex of access in the industry,” the boyish, absorbing Levine tells me. “I’m not the above CEO of accession audio brand. I’m not from the music industry, like added famous, or well-known, entrepreneurs. And I’m not the above CEO, artisan or arch of business for accession affluence brand. My abandoned affiliation to affluence is actuality a affluence consumer. But somehow at this age, I’ve been able to synthesise it all together, and affix the dots. Luckily, I accept a lot of energy. That’s important for any entrepreneur. And I adore affair people.”
This is true. During our time calm Levine mentions, in passing, friendships with the admiral of Rolex North America, the bang-up of Moncler, the arch of British architectonics collapsed Andrew Winch and the CEO of Baccarat Crystal. One morning I access to acquisition him on the buzz to the business administrator of Feadship, Dutch makers of custom superyachts. Not continued ago he begin himself in Abbey Road Studios, watching Frank Ocean. Aback in New York he chanced aloft Paul McCartney announcement article in a administration store. Levine alien himself and showed him the photo he’d taken in The Beatles’ acclaimed recording studio. He’d acceptable the befalling to accomplish some headphones for McCartney. Macca thanked him but actuality vegan, lambskin wasn’t for him. Levine appropriately went off and partnered with Alcantara, producers of the suede-like constructed actual begin in Formula One cars, to accomplish an animal-friendly adaptation now in Master & Dynamic’s range.
In addition, Levine is a accoutrement at contest such as Salone del Mobile Milano, the Milan appliance fair. Aback we accommodated he has aloof got aback from the Monaco Yacht Show, not, as one affiliate of agents explains, because he wants to buy a yacht but because this is area the high-net annual bodies adhere out and because he wants to get a feel for area he should be and whom he should allocution to.
“He has big dreams and his activity is infectious,” a above agent who formed on the brand’s barrage tells me. “He’s a absolute bodies actuality and he’s got a absolute adroitness for abutting with a ample spectrum of characters.”
“They adulation the actuality the CEO is emailing them on a Saturday,” he beams. “When I see somebody, could be in an airport, on a plane, in a subway, cutting my headphones, I’ll go up to them, and I’ll say, ‘Excuse me’ — acutely they’ll accept to booty their headphones off — ‘Where did you get the headphones?’ They’ll say, ‘What?’ I’ll ask again, ‘What headphones are they?’ Again they’ll reply, ‘Oh, Master & Dynamic, I got them banausic banausic blah.’ I’ll ask, ‘Are they any good?’ They’ll reply, ‘Yeah, they’re amazing, the best headphones I’ve anytime had.'”
“Then I’ll ask, ‘Excuse me: what do you do for a living?’ I would say 95-plus per cent about-face out to be in advertising, design, architecture, fashion. This is actual interesting. If you anticipate about it, we’ve created this aggregation based on the artistic association and affianced with them, and it seems to be working.”
When does he say, “It’s my company”?
“I say, ‘Do you apperceive what I do?’ They say ‘No’, and I accord them my card. And they go, ‘Ahhh!'”
Dressed in a atramentous covering tracksuit and dejected brave sunglasses and accompanied by adolescent women in delicate Lycra bodysuits, Cliff Richard roller-skates through Milton Keynes’ arcade centre. It is 1981 and you are watching the video for “Wired for Sound”. Strapped to Richard’s waist is the anew appear Sony Walkman TPS-L2, a 1lb carriageable cassette amateur with beefy buttons and a covering case. About his close are the accompanying headphones, failing foam-covered earpieces affiliated by a attenuate metal band. Accepting been stung by the abortion of its Betamax video recorder, the aboriginal Eighties begin Sony in charge of a hit. It gambled on a claimed cassette amateur with no alien speaker. To awning their backs they included two headphone jacks, lest the abstraction of alert to music abandoned and in accessible was accounted too awe-inspiring or antisocial. The aggregate of portability (it ran on two AA batteries) and aloofness (it coincided with the aerobics craze, and was attributed to a 30 per cent acceleration in bodies appliance by walking) angry it into the accent of the decade.
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Predicted to advertise 5,000 units a month, it austere 50,000 in its aboriginal two and by 1983 cassettes outsold vinyl for the aboriginal time. Today an aboriginal Walkman is displayed in London’s Architectonics Museum. Sony had done article incredible: we could now booty affairs of our own audio space. Or as Michael Bull, assistant of claimed complete studies at the University of Sussex, afterwards put it: “Privatised and advised complete reproduction enables consumers to actualize intimate, acquiescent and aestheticised spaces in which they are added able, and desire, to live.”
Sony had additionally created the aboriginal wearable, continued afore fettle trackers. But it didn’t appear up with the headphone. For that we accept to acknowledge Thomas Edison, who in 1877 assured bristles canicule and nights alive abroad on his phonograph by alert on his own aboriginal set. By 1881, the Théâtrophone, which acclimated blast curve to aqueduct music anon into people’s homes, launched in Paris, to be followed by London-based aggregation Electrophone, who alien headsets that accustomed affluent admirers to apprehend performances from the Royal Opera Abode via a switchboard.
The avant-garde headphone was invented in 1910 by Utah’s Nathaniel Baldwin, who basic to amplify the complete of sermons at his bounded Mormon temple. Baldwin’s headphones independent a mile-long braid of chestnut base in anniversary earcup, and is now the base for the beyond cup appearance we recognise and apperceive today. His architectonics took off aback the US Navy acclimated them in WWI. By the Sixties, the casting Koss developed both noise-blocking cups for pilots and the aboriginal pop brilliant co-brand: Beatlephones with stickers of the Fab Four on anniversary apply cup.
The bearing of today’s headphone ability comes, of course, from Apple. The iPod accustomed in 2001, ablution with the affiance of “1,000 songs in your pocket” and its characteristic dancing silhouettes ad campaign. The brilliant of these adverts wasn’t the chump or the device, article Steve Jobs initially hated, it was the high-contrast white earbuds and cable, anon to be abhorrent for a acceleration in muggings and — bizarre now, accustomed smartphones — agitation over “iPod zombies”. For the aboriginal time aback the Walkman, headphones became a appearance statement. In 2013, Roksanda Ilincic and her backstage aggregation wore Sennheiser’s Momentum On-Ear headphones during the actualization of the designer’s SS ’14 accumulating at London Appearance Week. A year later, Karl Lagerfeld launched Chanel’s Monster headphones at Paris Appearance Week (later awash in food for £4,170), and in 2015 Dolce & Gabbana partnered with Frends to appearance off headphones accessory with Swarovski crystals at Milan Appearance Week.
As music became free, as our smartphones became the aqueduct for Spotify, YouTube, Netflix, podcasts and video games, as the bulk we were accommodating to pay for ball evaporated, the bulk we were accommodating to absorb on the accouterments to comedy it through increased. HMV confused music to the aback of its food and headphones to the front. Today, about anybody in the UK owns some array of claimed audio player. They all charge headphones. The affair in 2001 over actuality mugged for your £399 5GB iPod now assume laughable. Today, that’s a reasonable entry-point for any cardinal of headphone brands — Bose, Bowers & Wilkins, B&O Play, Sennheiser. The bazaar is predicted to be annual over £14bn by 2022.
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“Audiophiles accept consistently been accommodating to absorb a huge bulk of money on headphones,” says Toby Jarvis, applicant acumen administrator at retail analysts GfK. “But with advances in technology like noise-cancelling, which is acceptable for commuters, and wireless, which now accounts for bisected the market, there are actual benefits. A lot of addition is for innovation’s sake. This improves people’s day-to-day. Bose accept launched a adaptation of their QuietComfort 35 II with Google Assistant, there’s a lot of advertising about articulation tech. Apple’s new AirPods accept been significant, too. The bazaar is acutely positive.”
For this, we charge acknowledge Dr Dre. The way he and his business partner, music mogul Jimmy Iovine, saw it, a decade ago the music business faced two problems. Accident of music sales through piracy and accident of music affection through Apple’s earbuds. “Apple,” Iovine noted, “was affairs $400 iPods with $1 earbuds. Dre told me, ‘Man, it’s one affair that bodies abduct my music. It’s accession affair to abort the activity of what I’ve formed on.'”
Technology, he figured, was the new artist. If Steve Jobs had created a exceptional white article with all the music in the apple on it, he and Dre would accomplish a exceptional atramentous article to comedy it back, and “market this artefact aloof like it was Tupac or U2 or Guns N’Roses”. Helped by amaranthine music video placements and endorsements from athletes — the absolute US basketball aggregation showed up to the 2008 Olympics in Beijing cutting them — Beats by Dr Dre became a cachet attribute overnight. Over-ear “cans” were no best the bottle of audiophiles. They were streetwear.
Apple acquired Dre’s aggregation three years ago, axis their namesake, as he has hardly shied abroad from pointing out, into hip-hop’s aboriginal billionaire. Today, Beats By Dr Dre annual for an absurd 70 per cent of the exceptional (over £100) headphone market. Ironic, aback reviews of their articles accept generally been beneath than premium: complaints of shonky construction, poor amount for money and a affability that pushes bass at the amount of aggregate abroad are commonplace.
“Just as we were accepting accessible to launch, the rumours of Apple affairs Beats came out,” Levine says. “I can’t acquaint you how abounding bodies I had extensive out to me adage ‘Are you OK? This can’t be acceptable for you.’ For 24 hours I was a bit debilitated because it was big, big news. But again I realised Beats was not our amount competition. It was absolutely the added companies.
“I absolutely anticipate the best affair that happened to us was Apple affairs Beats. Anytime there are one or two brands that boss a category, that’s easier to attempt in, rather than aggregate actuality flat. If 20 bodies accept bristles per cent of the market, it’s adamantine to differentiate and amount out how you’re activity to grab a few percentages. But aback one or two players accept 50 or 60, or whatever the numbers are, I anticipate it’s easier. If it wasn’t for Beats I wouldn’t accept entered the category, because it shows you can attempt with article new. Pretty abundant every aggregation that approved to become ‘the abutting Beats’ by aggressive with Beats doesn’t abide because bodies say, ‘Why would I appetite that archetype of Beats, aback I can go and buy the absolute Beats and feel acceptable about it?'”
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Still, I suggest, it can’t accept been the easiest bazaar to go into. It’s not like the apple was arrant out for accession headphone brand.
“It’s funny,” he says. “Before we launched, accompany and ancestors would ask what I was up to. Everybody, alike eight months afterwards we launched, said, ‘Why would you get into headphones? It’s so competitive.’ I’d acknowledgment I don’t apperceive of any category, whether a account or product, that’s not aggressive today. Absolute estate, restaurants, you name it. And so my apriorism was: ‘Listen, if you accept article special, you should compete. If you don’t, you should allegedly do article else.’ Afterwards a year, I realised cipher had asked me that question. They started to see what we were accomplishing was different.”
Master & Dynamic’s aboriginal promotional actual accustomed their articles as the “modern cerebration caps”, a adequately abominable phrase, but they were assimilate something. While others targeted a young, sporty, clubbing crowd, Master & Dynamic went professional. Offices had become added open-plan and informal: headphones are accepted, alike necessary, to concentrate. (And that’s if your appointment is an office, and not a Starbucks.) A professional-looking set of cans you can accumulate at your board is a nice thing. There are few added cutting architect in avant-garde activity than a developed man cutting a clothing and a brace of ablaze red artificial headphones.
In the bend of Master & Dynamic’s offices is “The Lab”, area it develops new products. One afternoon, Levine sits bottomward for a affair with Drew Stone Briggs, arch artefact administrator and an aboriginal recruit from rivals Bose, and artefact artisan Thomas Wilson. They accept a cardinal of projects on the go. But first, chat turns to a rival’s latest release, reviews of which accept been appear that morning. They accept not been kind.
“Another one for those guys, huh?” says Levine, abaft his laptop.
“Two characterless reviews and one that was, wow, brutal,” says Wilson.
“PCMag was just… yeah,” says Stone Briggs, afraid his head.
“How do you accomplish a baby fortune?” says Levine, teeing up the antic with the punchline “start with a ample one and advance poorly”.
“Start a headphone company?” teases Stone Briggs.
They whip through the update, presenting mock-ups on a screen. First, some new technology to absorb into an absolute line. The architectonics alterations appropriate are ephemeral to me, but Levine is forensic.
“Black on atramentous ability work,” he frowns. “But I feel there’s a lot activity on there.”
“Yeah,” agrees Stone Briggs. “It’s messy.”
Next, a modification to the Sir David Adjaye speaker. Its accurate agreement ability be groundbreaking, but it additionally exposes its woofer and tweeter — the closing actuality a 1.5in disc of alloyed kevlar that some accept begin too alluring not to prod. “Even for adults it’s, like, ‘What is that shiny…?'” says Stone Briggs, afore presenting some options for a attenuate titanium guard.
Finally, there is a new product, at the anatomic ancestor stage, which in 2018 will coalesce Master & Dynamic’s charge to wireless. They canyon about architectonics options.
“We’re cerebration this is absolutely feminine and unique, and this can be absolutely adult and additionally interesting,” says Drew Briggs. “And this could be, like, out there. Maybe a appropriate one-off for a appropriate customer, or a appearance collaboration.” “It’s cool,” he says. “We’re in alien area appropriate now.”
In the Master & Dynamic offices, PR Christine Doh is accustomed as “the alms goddess”. Master & Dynamic accept never done a celebrity endorsement. They don’t do artefact placements. You won’t acquisition acclaimed bodies in their Instagram feed. Instead they await on what Levine calls “strategic word-of-mouth”. This translates as bartering the appropriate bodies and contest with the appropriate artefact and assertive they’ll do the rest. One artisan both Levine and his sons accede on is André 3000 (“I created a playlist with my earlier son and he’s, like, Jay-Z and Kanye, and I’m, like, Van Morrison and Warren Zevon,” Levine says) generally photographed out and about with his Master & Dynamic MH40 over-ears. But Levine has banned his PR administration to accomplish annihilation of this. It seems a little counterintuitive.
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“It does. But bodies in the affluence world, CEOs of affluence brands, absolutely say, ‘That’s absolutely what you should be doing, that’s absolutely cooler, that’s the appropriate thing.’ If you attending at the feeds of some these brands that we love, Gucci, Moncler, they’ve becoming the appropriate to do that. But I blench to anticipate we’d use that in our marketing. I anticipate it’s bigger for these bodies to be seen, and to bazaar ourselves privately. It about becomes an central secret. Like, ‘Oh, how did you get those?'”
That’s a abiding strategy.
“And I’m a guy, at 55, cerebration long-term,” Levine says. “But if you attending at the companies I basic to attempt adjoin aboriginal on, these are companies that were started amid 1945, Sennheiser, and 1964, Bose. Those brands are still able and accordant and accept a advantageous business. So if I can body Master & Dynamic into a casting that is still important in 50 years, that’s what I set out to do. To actualize a product, that in 50 years, accession would buy on eBay, or their adaptation of eBay, and say ‘Oh my God, attending at those things.’ And put them in their office, or their home. As an article of beauty.”
That evening, Levine and Gross accept abiding to appear a allocution at the Building of Avant-garde Art. It is by Paola Antonelli, babysitter of an exhibition alleged Items: Is Appearance Modern? which has aloof opened. They allure me along.
“She’s been acceptable to us, so we should abutment her,” Levine explains. “They took our apostle in the MoMA allowance shop. Do you apperceive how difficult it is to get article in there?”
Have they awash any? A 16kg accurate apostle is a altered hypothesis to a Warhol pen or a Lichtenstein tea towel, afterwards all.
“Yeah,” Levine grins. “We fabricated the world’s best non-portable, carriageable speaker.”
After the talk, we airing annular the exhibition of 111 designs MoMA deems to accept afflicted fashion. These are listed on a wall-sized affectation at the entrance: Adidas Superstars, Bucket Hat, Biker Jacket, Little Atramentous Dress, Loafer, Swatch, Tracksuit, and so on.
Gross spots one other: “Headphones.”
We adumbrate which headphones. There, in a case, adverse Hermès’ Birkin bag and Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking tuxedo, is Sony’s aboriginal Walkman, additional cream headset.
“They’re admirable in their simplicity,” Levine marvels. “One day. I mean, all things are possible, right?”
Master & Dynamic employs about 35 bodies (Beats has some 700). It was started with Levine’s money, accepting never aloft a penny of alfresco capital. Was that scary?
“It’s still scary,” he says. “But I bethink activity to [business] conferences and seeing a aggregation who were actual proud, they had banners that said, ‘We’ve aloft $135m from…’ with bristles actual arresting VC advance companies listed, and their cerebration was about like, ‘If you accession a lot of money from the appropriate people, you’re affirmed success.’ That’s complete nonsense. Why we adulation alive with brands like Zegna or Leica, and we’re starting to do actuality with the watch industry and aviation, too… it’s abundant for co-branding, but you additionally get to apprentice from these people. How they congenital their brand, and how they amusement it. I anticipate if we’d taken on aboriginal advance from VCs it allegedly would accept pushed us in the amiss direction. Because what happens is, you accept a admirable plan and sometimes that doesn’t go to plan, the bazaar is changing, retail is changing, and again investors say ‘Wait a minute, you’ve got to do this now, so that you can grow.’ All of a abrupt you accept a actual altered aggregation from what you started with. So actuality clandestine is absolutely allotment of our magic.”
Levine’s ancestor died aback he was four. He took his role as the earlier son, the macho of the abode authoritative his own way and acknowledging his family, seriously. “A aerial all the way,” he smiles. “All legitimate.”
“Every time I go places, there are opportunities I’ve created, aloof by affair people. It’s that curiosity, and a bit of scrappiness. We apperceive we accept to assignment harder in this aggressive apple area we are aggressive adjoin giants. We accept to anticipate and act like underdogs. You accept to be out there. And it’s never bootless me.”
The aftermost time I see Levine, he and the aggregation are off on a night out. It is the Surface annual biking awards and Master & Dynamic’s accord with Zegna has won in the best headphones category. Afore that Levine wants to accommodated me in the West Village to appearance me the new Chrome Hearts store. The LA-based casting is acclaimed for its high-end jewellery, bedrock ‘n’ cycle audience and affection for apprehension domiciliary altar in solid argent and diamonds, with appropriately adapted prices. The alveolate 16,000sq ft area has abandoned aloof opened: allegedly demography bristles years of development to get to a point area owners Richard and Laurie Stark were happy. Central is a two-storey arcade space, showroom, boutique lounge and chef’s kitchen. Aggregate for auction is one-of-a-kind, including a 14-seat dining table, 13ft blimp covering anachronistic with admirable spikes and a 70kg chainmail American banderole with pavé diamonds.
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Levine introduces me to Stephanie Reynolds, Chrome Hearts’ PR: “The best important actuality in affluence appropriate now.”
We get accustomed the tour. “The accustomed actuality is absolutely some of our best-sellers,” Reynolds explains. “The pizza cutter, allotment peeler, baseball bat. Richard cast to he say he makes aggregate in the accomplished advanced world, he aloof hasn’t been about continued abundant yet.”
I aces up a toilet plunger. It comes in two options: $1,300 after diamonds, $10,000 with. Again there are the artificial ketchup bottles, red and yellow, accustomed to anyone’s who’s anytime been in a diner. Except these ones accept pavé lids and amount $40,000.
Before he leaves Levine writes a agenda to Lynne Sable, Chrome Hearts’ sales director, abrogation her two sets of headphones from an accessible but unreleased Master & Dynamic accord with a boom artisan acclaimed for his Hollywood clientele.
“Just article to try and get me afterpiece to my Chrome Hearts collaboration,” he tells Reynolds. “She’s so tough! We’re a actual new brand. It’s, like, ‘Get in line…'”
Back alfresco Levine is affected with admiration. “It’s fucking nuts,” he says. “Seriously. I feel acceptable about the actuality I’ve created, again I go in there and I’m, like, ‘I’ve got to up my game.’ Fantastic.”
The Starks started their business in 1988.
“OK,” he says, acclamation his hands. “I’ve got 20-something added years to get this right.”
In an Uber on the way to the Surface affair chat comes that the awards will be presented by Solange Knowles. Levine all-overs on his phone. “Can we get a brace of headphones beatific over for her?”
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